Thursday, September 29, 2016

PFW DAY 2

Day 2 of Paris SS17 Fashion Week has me very excited because RIHANNA!!! But we'll get to that later because stuff went down beforehand that I would like to elaborate on for a quick sec.

I was super excited to see what Maison Margiela conjured up, simply because whenever I think about Margiela I think about this look from the SS16 Couture collection which was one of my favorite things ever. In typical Margiela fashion (no pun intended), and I guess in typical me fashion, the SS17 collection completely baffled me. Headsets, ear-wing type thingies, and other unidentifiable head pieces were confusing. Confusion status: not cleared up as Galliano didn't personally explain the collection to me. This confusion doesn't equate to disapproval, though--maybe Galliano wants people to be confused for a bit. A couple things to note, though: business attire worn in a streetwear context worked really well with the assistance of the pops of bright colors and the structural black embellishments & the colorful makeup was a perfect example of why I appreciate runway beauty. Also, more convincing cases for #NoPantsFriday a la Man Repeller.


Lanvin showed THE BEST slides ever and made pinstripes cool while also letting us know that it can indeed make an effortlessly street-sophisticated LBD. Karlie Kloss closed the show with yet another outfit that materializes the "to wear pants or not to wear pants" debate.

Dries Van Noten featured a flower motif, which was present in the collection and reinforced through the runway setup. Interesting use of black flip flops, but compelling presentation of bright blue sandals that I want in my closet right now. Incredibly strong case for the #superkewlcoat. Yes, I made that term up myself because I have a love affair with coats and jackets.

Rochas was lots of tulle and strange color combinations. Oh, and jewel toned wooden platforms/clogs that kinda reminded me of the waist-length boots (were they pants?) from Vetements' last collection. A couple of the looks featured two widespread trends that may be too widespread to be considered high fashion: merch/labels on shirts and slip dresses over t-shirts.

I have to give credit to these looks, though, because the color combinations don't frustrate me and the tulle looks so cool:

Lemaire was mostly neutral and faded tones with a couple pops of bright red and pink. Here are my favorite looks that I would 100% wear:




 Fenty x Puma, designed by Rihanna, showed its second ever collection at fashion week and first ever collection in Paris (last year's Fall RTW collection was shown in New York). The entirety of the show and collection was much less dark and sultry than its predecessor, but the two collections shared the street aura that Rihanna is so good at articulating in a high fashion way. To do this, she told Vogue, she mixed Marie Antoinette's style with a sport influence, even saying that she "wants [the audience] to feel like this is what Marie Antoinette might wear to the gym, or play tennis in... I hope people receive it in a fun way" (Vogue, "Rihanna on Her New Fenty x Puma Collection, and How Marie Antoinette Became Her Bad Gal Muse"). If you think of it as a modern, swagged-out version of Marie Antoinette's closet (pay special attention to the corsets paired with sweat-gear), watching this collection go down the runway is nothing but fun, just like Ri intended. The color schemes were pale pink, olive green, lilac, teal, and neutrals and Rihanna's influence was clear: every look seemed like something she would wear, and the garments were draped on the models as if they were almost falling off, but in a way that somehow worked. And if anyone is queen of wearing things that work despite the fact that nobody knows why, it's Rihanna.


Wanda Nylon presented THE MOST convincing case for the bucket hat. Who would've known that it could be possible after this tweet went as viral as Harry Styles' haircut?
The use of metallics and reflective/holographic surfaces in general was stellar. I'm in love.


(Photos by Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv, Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv)
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Wednesday, September 28, 2016

PARIS FASHION WEEK DAY 1: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

The first day of Paris RTW SS17 Fashion Week has come and gone and collections said bonjour and Bienvenue. Here's how they did it:

Saint Laurent was likely the most anticipated show of the day--or at least it was for me, my body in a classroom desk but my eyes scanning the show schedule, mentally saying "I don't know who that is... I don't know who that is... HEY, Saint Laurent!" As you can tell, I'm far from reaching the end of my journey in familiarizing myself with every single design house/designer ever, but I'm trying and having tons of fun with it! Special thanks to Harry Styles for introducing me to the world that is Saint Laurent. I know you're reading this.

The show took place at 8 p.m. Parisian time, and the night-life feel seemed to be fitting for the dark-toned and dark-feeling collection. Black everything and mini dresses made of leather seemed anachronistic in what seems to be a season of bright color and energizing maximalism, and my mind immediately took this thought as a cue to file the collection into the "boring! I'm over monochrome" folder. A designer collection, though-- especially that of a well-known brand like Saint Laurent-- isn't just based off ideas like "I really don't think we should wear color in spring!" There's always a thought process, there's always an idea, there's always a message, and therefore, there's always magic. I found magic in the structural '80s-fied looks. Emphasis on the "structural"- the shapes of the looks below made the much more unique and interesting.

Jacquemus made a case for the straw hat, the heavily-padded shoulder (in a less ironic way than that of Vetements--Vogue said it, I agreed with it) and threw in an interesting case for the tutu. Folky-Parisian.

Koché mixed street style with couture-like touches and did this really cool thing where public guests got to sit and fancy-shmancy people stood. Also, each model looked like she had her own identity and lifestyle, which was a surprisingly satisfying switch-up from the sometimes seen "50 models who all look like the same person" format.



Y/Project hit us up with some heavy velvet and a pant style that seemed to be teetering on the edge of a decision called "To wear real pants or not to wear real pants." Revolutionary development in the #NoPantsFriday movement created by Man Repeller, and also a successful delivery of the message suspenders have probably been struggling to tell the world for years: "We still exist!!"

I've missed a couple (Paskal, Paule Ka, Aalto, Nehera, etc.), but these collections seemed most prevalent to me: some of the ones that were most well-received or talked about, and also some that were just my favorites of the day.

Coming up for day #2: Dries Van Noten & Maison Margiela!! Tie your shoes & ready your insta feed.

(Photos by Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv, Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv, Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv, Umberto Fratini/Indigital.tv)

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